Let’s call it a wrap

Hannah Betts is hooked on the insouciance of a vast scarf

Fashion

This article is taken from the April 2021 issue of The Critic. To get the full magazine why not subscribe? Right now we’re offering five issues for just £10.


I was talking to m’learned friend, A.N. Other Fashion Bitch, of late, lamenting that writing about matters style may prove life-enhancing, but is a sure-fire way to end up destitute. “God, I don’t buy all that tat,” she eye rolled. “I mean, no one buys clothes any more. We’ve got to save the planet.” “Oh, God, yeah, same,” I replied.

This is a lie. I buy all the tat. As you read this, I will be buying more tat. I’m not just toying with this shit, or endeavouring to offload it onto you. I want this stuff, crave it, have received psychological treatment for my obsession with it. As a former alcoholic, I am aware that no one is ever a former alcoholic, and that addiction will invariably whack-a-mole up elsewhere.

I buy all the tat. As you read this, I will be buying more tat

Pity poor David Smallwood, former manager of the Priory’s addiction unit, and author of Who Says I’m an Addict? (er, he does), whom I consulted in relation to my Zara habit. Now it would be the second-hand delights of Vestiaire Collective so — you know — planet saved. I record every purchase, take responsibility for them, but on they roll.

My appetite is no less about eroticism, fetishisation, the thrill of the chase. Rationally, I know that my wardrobe (OK, three wardrobes, a beneath-the-bed holding area, and sundry drawer arrangements) should be officially closed for business.

Or, as the cops put it in US police dramas: “Show’s over. Nothing to see. Move it along.” Last month, I purchased a corsage, before realising that I didn’t even have the capacity for an 8cm brooch. I wake Zen-like chanting, “There is nothing I want or need,” believing this for some minutes before plunged back into the Sturm und Drang of lust, gambling, desire; sartorial sobriety lost for another day.

Back when I was single, I would go to bed thinking about some fleeting object of my affections (term used necessarily loosely). These days, I will be obsessing over a garment, an accessory, a jewel; gazing at it on websites, sourcing vintage options, cross-referencing it against fixations past. Witness the recent 24 hours in which my pash on a gigantic blue scarf escalated into full do-me-now-bitch mania.

My first sighting occurred on 10 January, when I ripped its image out of a colour supplement, despite its price tag being a punchily unobtainable £325. Still, said comforter was operatically huge (“super-massive over-sized!” according to one enthusiast), the most electric of blues, utterly cheering, its model super-cool, and did I mention that we’re bored out of our tiny minds?

Plus its brand — it had a brand — is called Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, C-Jeff being an avant-garde 2015 St Martin’s alumnus financed by a weekly night-club slot beloved of drag queens, and into “craftsmanship with a couture sensibility”. I mean, COME ON. My scarf — it was already my scarf — was also sold out the world over, only exacerbating my hard-on.

Full disclosure: even as I fantasised, I was aware that it might not even be that nice. The “chunky stockinette stitch” and floor-pooling dimensions may scream “Celtic revival,” but veered equally close to “Grandma’s got crap maths”.

Still, I love a vast scarf for its fuck-you insouciance. Style references: Bob Cratchit; former J. Crew designer Jenna Lyons’s Noughties big scarf, mannish jacket, cut-off trews and heels vibe; and Lenny Kravitz, savagely memed since being consumed by a copious knitted number back in 2012.

Besides, what could be more late-Covid than wandering about in a security blanket, having finally ditched one’s coat for spring? It’s just that I already boast several thousand of them: in wool, silk, fur, cape/scarf hybrids, and doubtless other sub-genres I am forgetting. It would be fair to say that I like a scarf.

And so I did what any addict worth their salt would do. I hunted for tolerable alternatives, failed to unearth any that weren’t drab or costing triple figures, then located The Last Remaining Purchasing Option on a site called Grailed (think: chaps flogging streetwear). A Moscow collector (!) was offering my scarf — not yet my scarf — for $275, reduced from an original $420.

This not being my first rodeo, I offered $195. They came back with $225, and we settled on $215, plus $25 postage: a tumescence-shrinking £172.35. I did this, needless to say, during the nation’s greatest financial crisis since 1709, having failed to earn for weeks because of illness followed by a costly computer crisis. Still, it would complete my look and thus my so-called life.

Three days later: it arrives. I love it, am living for it, must Insta it and have my style choices endorsed. Ten minutes after that: I’m over it. I hate myself. I’ve dislocated my left shoulder. But, I am kind of into this bag …

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